How to Wax Hardwood Floors with Liquid Wax or Oil. Liquid wax or oil can be used on unvarnished hardwood, linoleum, or unfinished cork. Be sure to carefully follow the label's instructions. Although liquid wax is easier to apply than paste wax, the finish typically doesn't last as long.
All hardwood floors, whether made from new or recycled wood, or even vintage floors that have been in place a century or more, need periodic waxing. Floor wax helps seal the porous wood surface, protects it from stains, hides scratches and dents and increases shine.
Sweep or vacuum, then mop with a commercial wood floor cleaner or solution of a quarter-cup of dish soap and a gallon of warm water to lift any lingering grime. Give the floors a final pass with a clean, water-dampened mop to remove any cleaner residue. Dry completely with a soft, clean towel.
Floor wax penetrates wood pores when its rubbed onto the surface and buffed to a sheen. It gives wood floors a natural look; when you touch the floor, you're touching the wood, not a coating. It's not as durable as varnish but protects against water and some wear. It's simple to touch up using a rag and fresh wax.
Sweep or vacuum-clean your wood floors as often as necessary. Use Bona's mild, specially-formulated Wood Floor Cleaner for the best results, or the Bona Wood Floor Spray Mop. Just spray and wipe!
Wax finishes are easy to distinguish due to the way they react to water. It is easy to mark them with water spills. In an inconspicuous area, corner or behind a door, apply two (2) drops of water. If within ten minutes, white spots appear under the drops of water, the floor has a wax finish.
If the scratches don't go all the way through to the wood, you can scuff-sand your floors with a buffer and apply a fresh coat or two of finish. The hardwood floor refinishing process is easier and less expensive than sanding down to bare wood and takes less time. In a few hours, your floors will look as good as new.
Furniture & Effect Wax provides a protective, water repellent finish which is clear. It dries to a matt finish but can be buffed to a gloss sheen, so you can choose your desired finish.
VARNISH FINISH FOR ENHANCED PROTECTION
Compared to the waxed finish for wooden furniture, the protection offered by a varnish will be more durable over time. We recommend waxing especially for decorative purposes, to embellish a wooden piece of furniture while providing it with a certain degree of protection.
Olive oil naturally hydrates and polishes wood floors without leaving behind the dirt-attracting film common with store-bought products. It can clean and polish your floor at the same time or allow you to quickly buff dull areas back to a stunning sheen.
Whether you're cleaning one area or all of your flooring, Murphy® Oil Soap is safe to use on hardwood floors.
Mix a one-to-one ratio of water and vinegar, dampen a cloth, and rub off the hazy buildups. Rinse with another cloth dampened with clear water and dry the floor immediately with a third rag. Washing coupled with wear and tear can eventually make the hardwood floor look old and cloudy.
Murphy oil soap will bring natural shine to your wooden floors. All you need to do is dilute it properly and follow cleaning tips mentioned above. It's unique blend of natural oils, mixed with a hint of pine scent will clean away your dirt and grime while leaving behind an anti-slip and shiny finish to your floors.
Vegetable Oil & White Vinegar: Mix equal parts vegetable oil and white vinegar together to make a simple, yet effective, cleaner for your hardwood floor. Vinegar is a natural polish that is perfect for cleaning. It's acidity will help break down dirt and grime.
Apply the water-based silicone wax with a foam brush or latex paint pad applicator. Rub it in the direction of your wood's grain to enhance the natural wood texture. Let the wax dry as per the time mentioned on its package. Buff the floor with a dry pad or a buffing machine to bring its luster out.
To tell the difference in a pinch, just rub your finger across the floor. Be sure to do this on a clean floor. If no smudge appears, the floor is surface sealed. If you do create a smudge, the floor has been treated with a penetrating seal, oil finish, shellac, varnish or lacquer, and then waxed.
DURABILITY: Polycrylic hardens to a durable, wipeable finish and is good for high traffic pieces. Wax is only a semi-permanent finish and may never harden, making it better suited for show pieces. WEAR: Wax scratches and stains easily and will wear over time where poly has a much harder finish and is scratch resistant.
Today, wax is used to compliment other finishes and is applied over a primary finish to add a protective barrier and leave the wood looking both rich and natural. Or it is applied to raw wood as a bare minimum, natural finish for wood objects such as turned bowls.
Wax gets dull over time and needs to be reapplied very often, so it is not a good choice for furniture overall. If you are talking about wooden objects that you keep in your home on display, then wax is a good choice. For outdoor wooden objects, oil would be the best finish since it is much more resistant to heat.
Yes. Wax can be applied over almost any other wood finish including stain, oil, varnish and paint.
Those in the latter camp must content themselves with the fact that finishes of any type – poly, shellac, lacquer, wax – all change the wood's appearance. While they accentuate the grain and beauty of the wood, they also darken and deepen its color. This is usually a good thing.