Most building codes (including the International Residential Code) allow just one exception to these rules: in Climate Zones 2B and 3B, you can install fiberglass insulation against the underside of your roof sheathing without a ventilation channel or rigid foam above the sheathing — but only if you install tile ...
The roof assembly can be vented or unvented; insulation can be installed above the roof sheathing, between the rafters, under the rafters, or in a combination of these different locations.
To maintain airflow, leave a space of 38 to 50 mm (1 1/2 to 2 in.) between the top of the insulation and the underside of the roof sheathing.
You definitely don't want any insulation to touch the roof membrane as it'll pull water inside. Netting shouldn't be necessary - if the insulation doesn't touch when it is installed it'll only settle in time and won't touch later.
Building scientists recommend, and building codes require, that the insulation installed between the rafters must be in direct contact with the underside of the roof sheathing. An air gap between the sheathing and the fluffy insulation (or the spray foam insulation) is not permitted.
Yes it can touch. As long as there is nothing obstructing flow from the soffits - which sounds like the baffles are.
In roofs, the air gap should be larger, typically around 50mm (2 inches), to allow for proper ventilation and prevent condensation. It's important to note that some insulation materials, such as spray foam, do not require an air gap.
A vent baffle should be installed between the insulation and the roof decking to maintain the ventilation channel.
This should be confirmed in the membrane manufacturer's BBA certificate, though 25mm to 50mm is typical.
(Source: NRCA.) In the event you are erecting a “cold building” (such as a refrigeration building) that stays at 32 F (0 C) degrees or less inside, you will need a vapour barrier on the outside of the insultation to prevent warm exterior air from entering and potentially damaging the roof's insulation. (Source: NRCA.)
Not less than a 1-inch (25 mm) space shall be provided between the insulation and the roof sheathing and at the location of the vent.
The recommended maximum gap between roof sheathing boards for low-quality, 3-tab shingles is 1/4-inch. If asphalt shingles are installed over sheathing with gaps exceeding 1/4-inch, over time, these gaps may telegraph through and become visible.
Yes, too much loft insulation can cause dampness in some situations. Loft insulation works by trapping warm air inside a building, preventing it from escaping through the roof. This helps to keep the interior of the building warmer in cold weather, reducing the need for heating and saving energy.
The recommended space between the roof and insulation varies by material. Fibreglass or mineral wool typically requires a 50mm gap for ventilation, while foil insulation needs about 25mm. Spray foam doesn't need any gap as it forms a sealed barrier.
Can I put plywood over insulation in the attic? Yes you can install plywood subflooring directly over the floor joists and insulation on your floor. You need to install rigid insulation boards on top of the attic flooring joists and then install plywood over the top.
Do you have any plans for furnishing/fitting out your attic in the future? Then you could simply insulate the pitched roof. But the best solution is actually to insulate both the attic floor and the underside of the roof.
Remember that a two-inch breathing space between the insulation and the roof sheathing must be included to allow for ventilation. If I leave room, it's hard to fit more than R-13 without going to rigid foam board.
Common Over-Ventilation Problems
Too much ventilation can work against the airflow of your attic because having too many vents can cause them to start to work against each other. If the wrong types of vents are installed, these can also work against each other in a way that moisture or frost can regrettably develop.
But it's not the only important player that helps keep you comfortable throughout the changing seasons. In addition to having proper roofing insulation, your attic space must also have an effective roof ventilation system that maintains a flow of ambient air throughout.
If the insulation is installed properly, there should be a 2" air space above the insulation to the sheathing. In all practical purposes, this is should be easy to do if the rafters are 10" deep and the insulation is only 8". If that is the case, the random touching of the insulation buckling up will not matter.
You can put all the insulation on top of the roof deck, all the insulation on the underside of the roof deck, or some on top and some below. You can put it all below the roof deck but use two different kinds. Your insulated roof can be a cathedral ceiling or it can be above a conditioned attic.
Still, certified attic specialists may also use them during a major remodeling project. In open-cell spray foam installations, the typical R-value ranges from 3.5 to 3.6; in closed-cell spray foam installations, the average ranges from 6.0 to 6.5.
The general advice we give is that you should always insulate between and above the rafters (warm roof) or between and under the rafters (cold roof).
Where eave or cornice vents are installed, insulation shall not block the free flow of air. A minimum of a 1-inch (25 mm) space shall be provided between the insulation and the roof sheathing and at the location of the vent.
A universally accepted guideline for roof ventilation is the 1/150 ventilation rule. According to this rule, a roof must have ventilation that is at least one square foot for every 150 square feet of attic or crawl space. A minimum of 13.3 square feet of ventilation is needed for a 2,000-square-foot attic.